New to the Descendientes range this year comes Al Chelo, a 0.4 hectare, north-facing, single vineyard at 700m altitude. The grapes used to go into Corullón but are now vinified separately, given their very unique character. The plot was always called Al Chelo, but Chelo was also the name of Ricardo Pérez Palacios’s mother, and Álvaro’s sister, who sadly died during Covid. So, it was written in the stars, says Ricardo, “we had to do it”.
The nose is much darker than the other wines, moving into black cherries, yet with a sweet fragrance of wild strawberries and hint of violets drifting behind.
The palate has a very cool feel to it, reflecting its north-facing aspect. Black cherry kernels merge with a pure mineral lift and an almost granitic character. Chalk-dust tannins are initially present and then soften immediately, gliding on the tongue. All the weight of fruit is held on the palate, balletically poised, dancing towards the long, energy-fuelled, basalt-rock lick of a finish. This has power and will need time. Drink 2028 to 2048.
Catriona Felstead MW
