Valmira immediately shines out of the glass with its vibrant, red cherry-purple colour. The aromas are like inhaling spring, infused by a fragrance of cherry blossom and hyacinth, whilst walking through a wildflower meadow, crushing the wild herbs underfoot. Small, sweet red cherries lie behind, juicy and fine, and kept firmly in check by a river-pebble core. I could breathe in the nose of this wine all day; it is unique, astonishing, scented, fragrant, vibrating with energy, and utterly out of this world.
An astonishing, ultra-pure minerality cuts through all this perfume on the palate with the precision of a diamond blade splitting a rock of basalt in half. The pin-point tannins are like such fine powder; yet they remain initially present at this stage, needing more time. But it is the weightlessness of Valmira that takes your breath away. It inspires thoughts of a riverbed, the current rushing around a cherry tree island, with such a purity that it is difficult to describe. It is as fresh and invigorating as a glass of water from a cold mountain stream. The finish tightens slightly in its youth and then the fine, ultra-focused tannins just vanish. This an incredible, ethereal, other-worldly wine. Delicacy and power juxtaposed, 2023 Valmira is spine-tinglingly sensational. Drink 2028 to 2044.
Catriona Felstead MW