In the centre of Spain, a stone’s throw west of Madrid, is Bodegas Bernabeleva.
At the feet of the Cerro de Guisando and Gredos mountains this winery lets its vines stretch out their roots through the thin infertile sandy soils, formed from decomposed granite, to cling on to life. Four generations have tended these old hardy vines that have repaid the care and attention with quality fruit hand harvested from the organically managed vineyards. Plots of Garnacha, Albillo and Moscatel de Grano Menudo are vinified separately, neither fined nor filtered to ensure that both the land and love shown shine through.
This is a red wine made from Grenache grapes chosen from every vineyard in this organically farmed and certified estate. Through the varying types of soils, orientations and microclimates, it showcases the whole of the San Martin de Valdeiglesias' terroir. The ages of the vines range from 40 to 80 and planting densities from 1,900 to 2,200 vines per hectare.
Vineyards are manually harvested. Vinification is minimal intervention and takes place in wood, stainless steel or concrete tanks, depending on the features of the grapes, for each site is vinified and aged separately. All of the must if fermented with wild yeasts and macerates for 5 to 7 weeks, then aged in old oak for 1 year. Unfined and unfiltered.
Wild sweet berry fruits dominate the nose, with hints of spice, herb, graphite and salinity. A silky smooth entry leads on to full bodied flavours of sweet cherry, raspberry and nutmeg. Despite the big flavours this is still lovely and fresh, with a long finish and fine tannins.
"The entry-level red 2022 Navaherreros Garnacha de Bernabeleva is their interpretation of the region and vintage through a vinification with 50% to 80% of the stems depending on the plot, over four weeks of maceration and an élevage in 500+-liter oak barrels and 3,200-liter oak vats. It has a meaty nose with hints of iron and blood intermixed with wild berry fruit and an earthy touch. It's medium-bodied, with abundant, slightly dusty tannins and a dry finish." 92pts Luis Gutiérrez The Wine Advocate