Rías Baixas sits on Spain's rain-soaked northwestern Atlantic coast, in Galicia, about as far from the country's hot, dry stereotype as its wine regions get. Albariño is grown here on high pergolas that keep bunches off the damp ground and let sea breezes circulate, producing whites that are aromatic, saline and mouth-wateringly fresh — a natural match for the region's seafood.

Key grapes: Albariño