Masi Campolongo di Torbe Amarone della Valpolicella Classico
Masi are the great modern pioneers of appassimento, the ancient Venetian practice of drying grapes on bamboo racks over the winter. This process concentrates sugars, acids and flavours to yield uniquely rich, complex wines such as Amarone della Valpolicella. What is sometimes overlooked, perhaps, is that appassimento also enhances the effect of terroir – twice over. Not only are the specific vineyards characteristics expressed in the grapes made more intense, but the very location where the drying takes place also has its own influence. No pair of wines demonstrates this more convincingly – or deliciously – than the flagship Cru Amarones from Masi. Both come from terraced vineyards in the commune of Negrar, and have been recognised as special since the 12th century. Campolongo di Torbe consists of stony limestone soils, while Mazzano is on marl. But the main difference is found during the drying process: the lofts at Mazzano are at higher elevation, and colder – the grapes dry without any noble rot. At Campolongo di Torbe, on the other hand, warmer, more humid conditions allow botrytis to bring a further enriching influence during the appassimento. The contrast is striking. Mazzano is drier, more reserved, fabulously refined and mineral. Campolongo di Torbe is luscious, juicy, hedonistic. In a great vintage like 2012, rated 5 out of 5 stars, both are masterpieces of the craft of Amarone.
CAMPOLONGO DI TORBE 2012
70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella, 5% Molinara
Deep ruby red in colour, impenetrable. Elegant and complex aromas of fruit preserved in spirit and spices. A firm and well-balanced structure comes through on the palate, with smooth and silky tannins, as well as well-integrated alcohol. Long and intense on the finish with notes of kirsch.
95 pts James Suckling - 95 pts Wine Enthusiast
3* Bicchieri Gambero Rosso