Henschke Mt Edelstone
Matthew Jukes, MatthewJukes.com – 28th March, 2022
Planted in 1912 and with an easterly aspect and lower altitude (400m) than The Wheelright, Prue Henschke describes this soil type in this historic vineyard as ‘a dream’. Sandy loam over gravelly red clay and, below, layers of micaceous schist equal the perfect Henschke soil sandwich! Prue recognises that these strata give her wines more vigour and more power, and I can echo these thoughts because this is one of the most expressive young Henschke wines I have seen. There is no doubt that the flavours and perfumes in the glass directly reflect this precise site; this is all you can ask of a great wine. The purity of the blackberry theme is sensational and while the French oak does what French oak always tries to do – add gravitas and detail – it is the 14% American oak from the Appalachian Mountains that adds style, richness, and a touch of glamour to proceedings. After all of the action, the finish is respectfully prim, and tart and I love it when wines finish correctly on the palate with a ‘proper full stop’. I am aware that I get rather over-excited about Mount Edelstone, and so I paid particular attention to how this wine opened up over the course of four days, and it simply unfurled an immense array of charm and intricacy that, on first tasting, was discreetly hidden behind panels of flavour. This is a thrillingly controlled wine with invigorating flavours, and it will make three decades in a good cellar. (Drink 2025 – 2050)
Sarah Ahmed, Decanter – 29th March, 2022
Kaleidoscopic, this glorious vintage is terroir translucent, transporting you to the vineyard with its signature aromas of dried sage, Eucalyptus olida (aka Strawberry Gum), wild mint, wattleseed, nutmeg and tinder. Soaring and super-expressive, these scents bring compelling dimension and meld exquisitely on the sweet, juicy plum and bramble palate, with its cocoa nib and earthy hints. Graceful, willowy tannins and mineral acidity make for a long, fluid, markedly perfumed finish. Irresistible already! Drinking Window 2022 – 2042
Jancis Robinson MW, JancisRobinson.com – 28th March, 2022
Full screwcapped bottle a modest 1,264 g. 100% Shiraz from an east-facing vineyard at around 400 m, lower and warmer than Wheelwright, planted in 1912 by Ronald Angas on deep red-brown clay-loam to clay, first bottled as a single-vineyard wine in 1952! Probably Australia's longest, consecutively-produced, single-vineyard wine. Vines managed with organic and biodynamic practices and picked 19 to 24 April. Vine training has evolved from a hanging canopy to Scott Henry. Anti-frost measures were installed in 2014 because the lower part of the vineyard was vulnerable. Matured in (26% new) oak hogsheads, of which 14% were American rather than French, for 18 months before blending and bottling. pH 3.59, TA 6.4 g/l. Although it's four times as extensive as the Hill of Roses vineyard, there are lots of missing vines so it's certainly not four times as productive.